Monday, June 29 - Sitka

Sunrise 4:10 AM.  Ann had arranged a tour at the Sitka historical museum this morning. It was a new, small collection, but had the key elements of the history of Sitka...primarily the relations of the native Tlingit and the Russian "visitors". Frictions arose when the Russian laid claim to the entire of Alaska, which the Tlingit felt no one should own... They saw themselves as stewards of the land. After two significant conflicts (1802 and 1804) won by the Tlingit and Russians respectively, the two managed to peacefully coexist for the next 60+ years. The Russians were primarily interested in the sea otter pelts, which they traded for from the Tlingit. All was fine until the sea otter population was largely gone and Russians were in need of cash. The US made an offer of $7 million or 2 cents per acre, which they accepted (Seward's Folly). The US flag was raised for the first time in Sitka in 1867 and Alaska was a territory until 1959 when it was granted statehood. 

Sitka Museum.  Prince & Princess Maksutov.  Tlinget woman

We had hoped to visit the Russian Orthodox Church in downtown, but it, like many other things in Sitka, was closed due to Covid-19. Bennie grabbed some homemade sandwiches at the nearby Backdoor Cafe, which he and Ann had visited in 2017... One each of turkey, ham, tuna fish and pastrami. We tried to do most of our dining outside or in our apartment, to minimize our exposure to other folks.

The afternoon was spent in search of whales, to no avail. We started at "Whale Park"... Now come on... No whales??? It was drizzling but we traversed the boardwalk surround by Sitka spruce and salmon berry bushes. A mom and at least 5 young boys... All but one was hers... Were also on a salmon berry hunt. Most were eaten by the boys as they picked them and only a handful made it to mom's bucket that she had jam plans for. We were brave and each tried one or two. They very much resembled a blackberry in shape and form, but they varied in color from a salmon red to bright yellow. They were very tart and we all agreed that they would be better as a jam or pie.

Back in town we headed to the Sitka National Historic Park. Unfortunately all the national park service buildings were closed, but we were able to walk the lovely trail through the totem pole park. There were probably close to 20 poles of various ages and sizes. Most had a QR code on the back that led your smart phone to an audio guided tour of each pole. There trail ended at the site of the 1804 battle. We then hiked back along the Indian River. We searched for incoming salmon, but we didn't see any... We must have been a bit early for them.

Sitka Totem Park

We visited the site of old Sitka... Where the first Russian settlement was and the site of the 1802 conflict. A small island, magic island, sits just off in the water. A low tide there is a land bridge that let's you walk out to the island.
Castle Hill - The site of the residence of the Russian Governor/Manager of the Russian-American Company. In 1867 this spot was where the exchange between the US and Russia took place. And in 1959 there was a ceremonial flag raising of the short lived 49 star US flag.

CW from top, Totem Park, Princess Maksoutoff grave, salmon berries, Mean Queen Pizza, Castle Hill & Russian Orthodox Church

Our dinner was takeout pizza from the Mean Queen. We had salads and the Queen's Court Pizza (Marinara, Mozzarella, Pepperoni, Italian Sausage, Mushroom, Green Pepper & Red Onion). While we were waiting for our pizza order, we visited the grave of Princess Maksoutoff, who was the wife of the last Russian Manager. She died during childbirth of galloping consumption...or TB.

Sunset 9:59 PM